October 13, 2014 § 1 Comment
Hello! I am visiting from The Dreamy Day with a little cookbook review. Shortly after arriving back in the States I received an e-mail from Lori Rapp of Jerusalem’s La Cuisine, asking if I would mind reviewing her new cookbook on my blog. Since Ari Cooks is my food blog, and the one that is still quite active for recipe-seekers, I thought it best to post the review here. Hope you enjoy (and you can purchase the book on amazon)!
Review: Secrets from Lori Rapps Kitchen Tales and recipes from Jerusalem’s popular La Cuisine.
As someone who has worked in the food industry from a young age, both behind the counter and in the kitchen, I thought I knew all the reasons why opening one’s own business is a risky and somewhat crazy endeavor. Over the years people have asked me again and again if I would consider opening my own bakery or cafe one day, and my answer has always been that I don’t have the desire to make my life that hectic and complicated. Inside, however, I have secretly thought that maybe, maybe when my girls are a bit older, and I have more time and energy to devote to such a thing, perhaps I could open something small and unassuming. Just a little place that might become a local favorite somewhere for breads, muffins and cakes. Lori Rapp’s book has done a swift job of reminding and informing me of the perils of the food biz, hitting so close to home for me, that I feel a bit traumatized after internalizing her experiences catering from her home and running her cafe and bakery in Jerusalem.
Amazingly, that is not how Lori Rapp feels. Despite the fact that she was the one whose bathtub was filled with salmon (in the early days of her business), whose face and arm were disfigured by burning caramel, who went through a miscarriage and chemotherapy with little time off from the rigorous pace of her work’s demands, and did all this while navigating an extremely inhospitable city-licensing bureau, impossible-to-please health department, and myriad other hurdles that would have sent most people running for a pleasant desk job, Lori Rapp is glad she spent 21 years doing what she loves.
The first third of Lori Rapp’s book is memoir, taking the reader on a short trip back in time to her childhood, growing up as the daughter of Holocaust survivors in Toronto. The kitchen of Rapp’s youth was filled with some predictable foods, like shmaltz and poppyseed cake, and some less predictable, such as Mallomars and Aunt Jemima’s pancake mix (Rapp’s father was impressed with the sweets and convenience foods of the new world). As she grew older, Rapp began to discover foods and cooking styles different from her parents’, and her courtship with her husband-to-be, Marvin, was filled with butter-laden, time-consuming recipes — the kind of cooking one does when time and energy allow for impractical meals eaten at late hours.
Rapp then describes in detail, and with the fondness that hindsight can bring, the early years of their catering business: meals for 200 or more, somehow prepared from their small Jerusalem apartment. Adventures in catering brought incidents such as a $2500 electric bill one month, and their five young sons often ate disappointingly simple meals while piles of glazed baked goods (for customers!) mocked them from the kitchen counter.
When Lori and Marvin finally took the business out of the apartment, they were naive and unprepared for the roller coaster of the holiday season in a country obsessed with certain foods at specific times (mountains of cheesecakes and a line out the door on Shavuot, hundreds of honey cakes on Rosh HaShanna). Even so, they smiled their way through 14 years of business ownership before selling off La Cuisine to their partner in 2012.
Luckily for us, that sale did not include the rights to Rapp’s recipes for her wildly popular baked goods and savory items from La Cuisine’s catering menu. When I moved back to Jerusalem in 2011, one of the first things I heard (no joke) was praise for Lori Rapp’s non-dairy cheesecake. Because of the laws of Kashrut, cheesecake had formerly been relegated to the holiday of Shavuot, and the occasional dairy luncheon. When La Cuisine began selling (or selling out of, most often) this cake, happy folks all over the city could serve it at their Sabbath meals. The recipe for the tofu cheesecake of legend is generously provided by Rapp on page 76 and it was the first item I chose to make from her book. I am providing the recipe and photos (my own) below. As for more of Rapp’s delicious cakes (Chocolate Symphony, Chocolate Mousse, Dacquaoise), cookies (florentines, alfajores, butter pecan) tarts and more, you’ll have to buy the book.
Lori Rapp’s Tofu Cheesecake
makes one 9-inch cake
Lemon Curd (make ahead and cool)
1/2 cup plus one Tbs sugar
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 oz butter or butter-flavored margarine (I used smart balance)
2 tsp grated lemon rind
3 eggs (or 2 eggs + 2 yolks, if you want it extra rich)
180 grams (1.5 cups) Petit-Beurre or Marie biscuit crumbs (“Kedem” biscuits in the kosher section of the supermarket are also good)
1/4 cup brown sugar
3 oz butter or butter-flavored margarine
32 oz Toffuti plain cream “cheese” (do not substitute other brands)
1.5 cups sugar
2.5 tsp vanilla
2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
240 ml (one cup) lemon curd
120 grams (4 oz) lemon curd
1 Tbs warm water
1-2 Tbs non-dairy heavy whipping cream, unwhipped
Preheat the oven to 350°F
line one 9-inch spring form pan with baking paper for easy removal of the cake
make the lemon curd:
put the sugar, lemon juice, butter/margarine, and lemon rind in a small saucepan, bring to a gentle boil.
whisk the 3 eggs in a separate bowl.
when the butter/margarine mixture is entirely melted in the saucepan pour the mixture into the eggs while whisking (careful not to scramble your eggs!), and pour the mixture back into the saucepan.
bring the mixture back to a simmer while whisking. When bubbles start to break the surface and the curd thickens slightly, pour it out through a sieve into a clean bowl (if your curd is very smooth, just pour it into a bowl to get it out of the hot pot). Curd keeps for 4-5 days in the fridge.
mix all the ingredients together and press the the crumbs into the bottom and sides of the prepared pan.
beat the tofutti cream cheese and sugar in a mixer with the paddle until smooth. Slowly add the eggs, vanilla, and lemon juice. Scrape down the sides once with a rubber spatula and mix again until it’s smooth.
Pour and lightly spread about 240 ml (1 cup) lemon curd into the bottom of the prepared crust. Gently and carefully pour in the cheese mixture.
Bake the cake for about 50-55 min, until it is puffy, lightly golden and a little bit wobbly.
When the cake cools and sinks back down, loosen it from the pan by cutting around the inside of the ring with a sharp knife, but leave the ring on. Refrigerate overnight, and then remove the outer ring. Lift the cheesecake off of the bottom by pulling on the baking paper. Carefully pull off the paper.
mix the lemon curd with a tablespoon or two of warm water and pour it on top of the cooled cake, letting it run evenly almost to the outer edges.
Pour the unwhipped cream into a pastry bag (you can also use a ziplock), cut off a bit of the tip with scissors, and zigzag a design onto the lemon curd, pulling into various designs with a toothpick or a sharp knife.
March 2, 2014 § 1 Comment
I am not sure if all my aricooks subscribers have been getting the feed from my new bog The Dreamy Day. If you have had any problems signing up for e-mail updates, please let me know so I can work out the kinks.
Thanks, and here are a few of the posts I’ve been sharing lately:
February 1, 2014 § 3 Comments
We are on the cusp of another major transition: In five months we will be moving back Stateside. Where exactly is still undecided (oh, how I love the suspense) but there are many preparations underway and not a small amount of apprehension, excitement and anxiety. Meanwhile, the time has come to say goodbye to new posts on Ari Cooks! I am not taking down the blog as it definitely still draws activity and is very useful to me as a reference (I will still be moderating comments here as well), but after 4+ years of blogging here I am ready to change the tone and focus of my writing just a bit.
I hope you will visit my new blog, The Dreamy Day where there will still be recipes, but also posts about life, motherhood, Israeli-Americaness and certainly our adventures in our new Home-to-be.
Thank you all for reading, commenting, and encouraging my blogging-efforts!
Lots of Love, Ari
December 25, 2013 § 3 Comments
Every day is an adventure
The days are long but the years are short
Parenthood is the hardest job you will ever do
Enjoy them while they are young, because they will hate you later
These are things that I hear, as well as say (with the exception of the last one) to parents of young children who, like me, are in the throes of a very trying time that they will somehow later look back on with nostalgia, affection, and even longing. It’s not pretty when you’re in it, in fact sometimes it’s quite the shitshow, but our human brains continue to mystify in their ability to remember things ever-so-selectively. Right now, I am in the trenches. Our little baby, who just weeks ago amazed all of our friends with her easy-going and adorable demeanor, is in full-teething mode and my older daughter is going through some kind of emotional somethingorother, most likely related to being a new big sister.
During moments of hopeful clarity, I think that I will figure out how to organize my non-existent free time better, so that we can still eat a varied menu full of things that my older daughter will be willing to try and that will not feel like ‘kid-food’ to my husband and me. The joke’s on me, since it’s usually all I can do to eat anything at all besides rice cakes dipped into the peanut butter jar and bowls of granola doused in rice milk. Yeasted saffron-butter cakes and persian rice pilafs continue to taunt me in my facebook newsfeed, along with my food-blogger friends’ instagram pictures of noodle hot pots in New York City and stuffed savory pastries for breakfast in Istanbul.
Right now I am not [too] ashamed to say that we eat a lot of pasta and tomato sauce, which I do manage to make with tomatoes I buy at the shuk on Sunday or Monday- the best days to get cooking tomatoes leftover from the pre-Shabbat shopping rush. We also eat tofu, tofu and more tofu, lightly sauteed or baked in a combo of soy sauce, toasted sesame oil and olive oil. Endless omelettes (I am going to brag here– I make a really good egg, folks), and sometimes vegetable soup, if we are getting really fancy.
Happy depths-of-winter to you all, with love and a little madness, from Nachlaot, Jerusalem, Israel.
November 27, 2013 § 2 Comments
I remember last Channuka well. My friend Sharon Kitchens asked me to submit a few paragraphs about the holiday for her blog, based out of Maine, to give readers a feel for the winter season here in Israel. Mustering all the positive feelings I could regarding the cold and rain that had recently befallen us, I wrote what I hoped was a cozy little piece , that more or less summed up the ambiance ’round the festival of lights in my neck of the woods.
September 11, 2013 § 2 Comments
Here’s what’s been cooking at the casa de Amshalem
That there is Alma Sarah at 3 weeks or so- She is now 7 weeks old and an adorably chunky 12+ pounds.
Amazingly, I have still been finding time to cook, bake and sew, although some days I feel burnt out from trying to be productive in the free moments. Nevertheless, I will say that mothering a baby is a thousand times easier the second time around, without all the new-mom anxieties and uncertainties. Also, knock on wood, Alma is an wonderfully happy baby, who has been fairly calm and content since the moment she entered the world.
Late pregnancy and the time that follows are not a time to experiment with new recipes, so we’ve been relying on some comforting, not-too-complex recipes of late. Other than my usual granola, tomato sauce & moussaka, carrot muffins, and challah, we’ve also been eating the following dishes quite a bit:
Zucchini Pashtida (quiche-meets-fritatta)
Jerusalem Kugel (I like Liz’s recipe, but add the noodles INTO the caramelized sugar, instead of the other way around- I find that there is less caramel-clumps that way.)
I wish you all a Shana Tova and happy Fall! And as always, I love to chat about food/cooking/recipes, so feel free to contact me with questions about the above recipes, or anything you’ve been cooking!
May 11, 2013 § Leave a comment
It’s May in Jerusalem and nothing could be more delightful. The days are warm, the evenings are breezy, and our loquat tree is bursting with fruit. The old ladies that wander the shuk with their backyard-offerings are selling a variety of basil that lasts for weeks in a glass of water set out on our table (it even starts to root), and smells amazing. My fruit and vegetable guy had organic lettuce this week, grown by his teenage neighbor, and bright, sweet cherries, also grown without pesticides. I know that the heavy, sticky heat is imminent and I am enjoying every second of this season.
I’ve been making a pitcher of my favorite iced tea every few days, which is basically just a fruity tea mix with berries, apples and hibiscus, sometimes mixed with a little white or mild green tea, steeped in a litre of just-boiled water for a few minutes, cooled, chilled and served over ice. Sometimes I mix it with bought or homemade lemonade and sprigs of fresh mint and verbena.
And after our five week stay in Boston this winter reminded ever more how lucky I am to have access to cheap lemons (80 cents a piece at the markets in Boston!!) I have been also been using them in everything from salad dressing, to dips, to this lovely tea cake adapted from The New York Times Cookbook:
Simple Lemon Cake
1.5 cups flour – I used 50-50 white and whole wheat (you could also use part spelt)
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 lb butter (~125 grams)
2 large eggs, at room temp
3/4 cup sugar
6 Tbs milk
2-3 Tbs fresh squeezed lemon juice
2-3 Tbs lemon zest
Preheat oven to 350F/180C, grease and flour a loaf pan (English cake pan)
Add a little of the lemon juice to the milk to curdle it.
Sift flours, baking soda, powder and salt together in a bowl, set aside.
In a large bowl beat the butter and sugar until fluffy. Beat in eggs one at a time, and then beat in lemon zest and vanilla.
Alternately beat in flour mixture and liquids. Beginning with flour, then adding a bit of the milk and lemon juice etc, ending with flour. Do not overmix.
Spread batter into loaf pan and bake for about 45 minutes on the center oven rack.
Happy Spring, listen to this if you haven’t yet (or even if you have).